Grind Box

Price: $85

This ramp was designed to be as cheap as possible, and easy to build. All it needs is one sheet of plywood, one sheet of hardboard, four 2x4's and a piece of angle iron. This grind box is perfect for beginners, or just someone who wants to drag something onto the road for an afternoon session.

What You'll Need

  • Four 8-foot long 2x4's
  • One 8'x4', 3/4" Plywood
  • One 2"x2", 1/4" thick angle iron
  • 3" and 1 1/2" deck screws
  • A skill saw or whatever you prefer
  • A pencil to mark your cuts
  • A drill that will go through metal
  • One tape measure
  • The required safety gear

Cut List

MATERIALS CUT LIST
--- Description --- --- Dimensions --- --- Quantity ---
3/4" treated PLYWOOD 1' x 8' 2
3/4" treated PLYWOOD 2' x 8' 1
1/4" masonite (hardboard) 2' x 8' 1
1/4" masonite (hardboard) 1' x 8' 1
2x4 (treated) 1' 10 1/2" 15
2"×2", 1/4" thick angle iron 8' 1
screws 3" deck screws 60-80
screws 1 1/2" deck screws (for plywood) 40-50

Cut the side pieces

Start with a regular 3/4" 4'x8' sheet of plywood and make two cuts as shown in the picture below. The two skinnier pieces will be used for the vertical sides of the box, and the wider piece will be used for the top of the box.
Cut the side pieces

Start framing

Take the two skinnier pieces of plywood that were cut and start screwing 1' 10 1/2" 2x4's across. It is best to start with the four corners so that the box will stand on it's own. Be sure to use two 3" screws in each end of each 2x4.
Start framing

Finish framing

Continue on with the previous step, screwing 2x4's along the top at 8" apart.
Finish framing

Screw on the plywood

Take your leftover 2'x8' piece of 3/4" plywood and place it on top of the box. Now you need to screw in into place with 1 1/2" deck screws. I recommend putting three screws in each 2x4.
Screw on the plywood

Attach the angle iron

There are many ways to do this step. I recommend countersinking 2 screws in each end of the flat bar (as seen in the picture below) and also two in the middle. Countersinking the screws will prevent them from sticking out and betting caught on skateboards, roller blades, etc. If you don't have a way of drilling through metal, you can also buy some contact cement from your local hardware store and glue the angle bar on.
Attach the angle iron

Screw on the masonite

Since the angle bar is 1/4" thick, screwing on a sheet of 1/4" thick masonite (hardboard) will make everything flush. The masonite should not need as many screws as the plywood did. Since the metal angle bar will take up some space on the corner, you should first measure from the metal, to the edge in order to figure out how wide to cut the wood. This may vary depending on the size of your angle bar. In our example, the angle bar will take up 2" on each side so the top piece of masonite will need to be 2' subtract 2" which is 1' 10". The side piece will need to be 1' subtract 2" which is 10".
Screw on the masonite

Leave a Comment

thumbnail we the people bmx wrote:
sweet :)
thumbnail gSchier wrote:
Thanks :)
thumbnail cyobball98 wrote:
What is the masonite for and do most "Lowes" have it?
thumbnail gSchier wrote:
The Masonite is good for getting a smooth surface. Plywood is usually rough and not as good for small wheels (skateboards, etc). If you have ever been to an indoor skatepark you will notice that all the surfaces are very smooth and nice to ride. You will also slide down Masonite if you fall on it, as opposed to getting splinters on plywood.


*Tip: Masonite is actually just a brand name. This type of wood is actually known as hardboard.
thumbnail cyobball98 wrote:
thank you sooo much :)
thumbnail cardo186 wrote:
Would this work as a table top for a jump?
thumbnail JerTer666 wrote:
I want to add a round rail is it possible to do that with this design?
thumbnail Spiellion wrote:
Hello. Pretty cool grindbox! thx for the description! I build it and it cost 50 € and only 3h making time. Look at my profile Pic ;D
thumbnail gSchier wrote:
@Spiellion: Nice! That looks awesome.
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