Mini Ramp (4')

Price: $2000

A good mini ramp is something that almost every skateboarder, BMXer, etc. wishes they had in their back yard. Well now you can build one on your own with these instructions. The dimensions for this ramp are: 4' high, 16' wide, 4' deck, 7'9" curve radius.

What You'll Need

  • Three 4'x8' sheet of 3/4" plywood
  • Four 4'x8' sheets of 3/8" plywood
  • Thirty 8' 2x4's
  • two 16" black steel pipes
  • A bunch of screws and a drill
  • A pencil
  • A tape measure
  • Something to cut the pieces with
  • The required safety gear

Cut List

MATERIALS CUT LIST
--- Description --- --- Dimensions --- --- Quantity ---
3/4" treated PLYWOOD 4' x 8' (used for sides) 4
3/8" treated PLYWOOD 4' x 8' 30
1/4" hardboard 4' x 8' (for top layer) 16
treated 2x4 7' 10 1/2" 56
treated 2x4 7' 9" 24
treated 2x4 7' 7 1/2" 20
treated 2x4 3' 11 1/4" 16
treated 2x4 ~6' (for cross braces) 16
treated 2x6 8' 4
treated 4x4 8' 8
Deck screws (for studs) 3" deck screws 1000-1300
Deck screws 1 1/2" 4500 approx.

Cut the side pieces (2x)

This particular ramp has a curve radius of 7'9" but this can be changed slightly depending on your preference (keep in mind that if you change the curve radius, you will have to alter other dimensions slightly). You can see our helpful page, Smooth Transitions page for instructions on how to plan out and cut a smooth curve. You will need to make 8 of these curves, so that means you will need 4 full sheets of 3/4" plywood since you can get 2 curves out of one sheet.

*Tip: Save the scraps so you can use them to build a small extension or box for your mini ramp.

Cut the side pieces (2x)

Start framing

For this ramp, you will be needing 4 identical 8' wide sections so it will be much faster if you construct them at the same time. The first 2x4's you should attach are the ones that will be holding the coping, and the very bottom one. These 2x4's should be 7' 10 1/2" and each 2x4 should have 2 3" screws holding in each end. (The layout of the top 2x4's can be seen more closely in the second picture.

Start framing

Start framing

Join the two sides

This part is very simple. Just remember that the spacing of the 2x4's should be 8" in order to achieve maximum strength. Next, just attach the two deck supports (3/4 screws in each).

Join the two sides

frame the table

To frame the deck, you will need to use 7' 7 1/2" 2x4's spaced 8" apart. You will need to put 2 screws in each end of each 2x4.

frame the table

Begin work on the ledge

use two 8' long 4x4's and attach each one to the inside of each corner. These posts will be supporting the back of the deck, and they will also be what the railing attaches to (if you decide to make a railing). If you don't want a railing then simply cut these of at the height of the deck. You will also need to attach the bottom supports which should be identical to the ones on the deck.
Begin work on the ledge

Add more cross pieces

This part is essential to the strength of your ramp. These diagonal cross pieces will keep the ramp from swaying side to side. The exact positioning of these pieces is not that important, as long as they don't stick out further than the perimeter of the top deck.
Add more cross pieces

Add another layer of 2x4's

The flat bottom is the part of the ramp that will connect the two sides together. You will be using two 8' 2x4's for the sides, and you will be using twelve 7' 9" 2x4's as cross pieces which will be spaced 8" apart. You will need two of these so I advise you build them at the same time to be more efficient.
Add another layer of 2x4's

Screw on the first layer of plywood

A person riding on a mini ramp can create a lot of force. This force will make the ramps want to disconnect from the flat bottom. This is why it is important make sure you attach the flat bottom the strongest way possible. It isn't necessary to use lag bolts, but it is recommended. You can purchase 3/8" lag bolts from any hardware store for really cheap (you will need 2 washers and 1 nut per bolt).

Using Bolts: To attach the bolts, just drill a hole through where you want to place the bolt (the size of the hole should be slightly larger than the size of the bolt), and then slide the bolt through, making sure you have a washer on either side, and tighten the nut with a wrench. You should only need approx 1 bolt every 3 to 4 feet.

Using Screws: You can also attach the flat bottom using screws [This method is not as strong as using lag bolts so it is not highly recommended]. You should be using ~3" deck screws for this and placing one screw ever foot. You can also apply screws from both sides for more strength.

Screw on the first layer of plywood

Leave a Comment

thumbnail Sk8master53 wrote:
sweet im starting this ramp today!
thumbnail gSchier wrote:
@Sk8master53: Nice! You should take lots of pictures and send them in! :)
thumbnail skaterdad wrote:
I love this site. How could I make this an 8 ft instead of a 4 ft ramp
thumbnail skaterdad wrote:
nevermind I see the six foot version, my bad
thumbnail gSchier wrote:
@skaterdad: Ah, ya! Glad you found that. If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask!


~Gregory
thumbnail leemarty wrote:
whats the height, length and width of this ramp, and thanks for all the plans! :)
thumbnail gSchier wrote:
it's approx 30'x16'x4'
thumbnail hoyalskate wrote:
do you have halfpipe plans that arent as long as 30 feet??
thumbnail hoyalskate wrote:
or do you know where i can find some
thumbnail gSchier wrote:
Well it really depends what you're looking for. If you made the decks on this ramp shorter it would take off a lot of length. Your only other option would be to build a shorter ramp (example 3 feet high instead of 4 feet).
thumbnail hoyalskate wrote:
what would i have to take off the supply list to make it shorter?
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